Jack Larsen bought up the last available akvavit for the Scandinavian Community Centre.

Photograph by : Peter Battistoni, Vancouver Sun

Shortage of traditional tipple threatens Nordic Christmas

Chad Skelton, Vancouver Sun

Published: Tuesday, December 19, 2006

B.C.'s small but proud Scandinavian community has a reputation for being even-tempered and easygoing.

That could all change this Christmas.

That's because, for the first time in living memory, akvavit -- a distilled spirit that has been a Nordic holiday tradition for centuries -- is no longer for sale in this province.

"As far as we're concerned it's a real damned disaster," said Jorgen Lyth, president of Vancouver's Danish House Society.

Akvavit, also known as aquavit, is made from potatoes and flavoured with herbs such as caraway seeds.

About 40-per-cent alcohol, the drink is served in shot glasses after being chilled thoroughly in the freezer. It accompanies traditional Scandinavian foods -- in particular large Danish smorgasbords held on Christmas Day.

"It's a tradition that goes back hundreds of years and we don't want to break it," said Lyth.

The most popular brand of akvavit, and the only one usually available in B.C., is Aalborg Akvavit from Denmark.

One of the branch's purchasing agents thought it could secure an extra 70 cases -- enough to meet B.C.'s needs through the holidays -- but that deal fell through.

"It was a shock to us," said Jeffcoatt. "At this point in time, we having nothing coming from our supplier."

The akvavit shortage has led some to take drastic steps.

When the Scandinavian Community Centre in Burnaby -- which holds many functions at which akvavit is served -- heard of the problem two months ago, it held an emergency meeting of its four national associations.

The Danes, the Norwegians and the Swedes all agreed to chip in to buy up every bottle of akvavit they could find.

"The Finns killed themselves laughing because they drink vodka, so it wasn't a big deal to them," said Jack Larsen, who helped secure the supply.

In all, the centre purchased 715 bottles of Aalborg Akvavit for $18,026 -- getting it shipped in from all across the province.

It should be enough, said Larsen, to last the centre three or four years. But don't ask him to sell you a bottle.

Under the terms of the centre's liquor licence, it can only sell shots at private functions.

Larsen acknowledged the move may have denied other Scandinavians the joys of akvavit this Christmas, but he said the centre had to take steps to protect its supply. In the meantime, to avoid possible theft, the bottles are being kept at a secret location away from the centre -- known only to Larsen, his wife and one other person.

On the 2001 census, more than a quarter-million B.C. residents said they had full or partial Scandinavian origin -- the largest groups of which are 112,000 Norwegians, 89,000 Swedes and 50,000 Danes.

The irony of the akvavit shortage is that most agree the drink is not, in any normal sense of the word, pleasant.

"It's a full caraway flavour with a lot of burn to it," said Max Augustin, 56, who moved to Vancouver from Denmark at age 10. "You cannot drink this stuff warm. You cannot drink this stuff mixed with 7Up or anything like that. It will just kill you. It's horrendous what it will do to you."

Augustin, who has been looking for a bottle for weeks, said he can't remember having a Christmas without akvavit.

"I grew up with it," he said. "My mom used to go buy a bottle every year."

Even the Danish Embassy has gotten involved.

Anja Jeffrey, a spokeswoman with the embassy, said it contacted the supplier after receiving calls from several concerned Danish Canadians.

It turns out the Danish company that makes the drink, De Danske Spritfabrikker, was bought out by Swedish spirits giant V&S in 1999.

In 2005, to cut costs, the company began halting exports to several smaller markets -- including Canada.

"It's not a political decision. It's not like someone sat down and said we're going to punish all the Danes abroad," said Jeffrey. "That's what we've been trying to explain to the Danish community here."

In the meantime, she said, the embassy's functions have not been affected.

"I'm sure the ambassador has a stash of the stuff somewhere," she said.

Lyth admits the importance of akvavit may be hard for non-Scandinavians to understand.

"I know it's sounds a bit silly for bloody alcohol, but it's such a tradition," he said. "My life won't end because I can't buy it anymore but . . . I'll miss it."

cskelton@png.canwest.com

WHERE TO GET AKVAVIT

Aalborg Akvavit, a traditional Scandinavian Christmas drink, is no longer for sale in B.C. But if you're desperate for it, there are a few options:

- The Scandinavian Community Centre in Burnaby is still selling the drink in individual shots at its bar. But you need to have a ticket to one of its official functions.

- Washington state liquor stores are no longer stocking Aalborg Akvavit but have a few bottles left in some of locations. It also continues to stock a similar Norwegian brand, Lysholm Linie.

- You can't special-order Aalborg Akvavit from B.C. liquor stores. But the liquor branch says it is working on getting a different brand of the spirit in its stores in the coming months

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© The Vancouver Sun 2006